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The Northern Neck

A travel guide to Virginia's Northern Neck.

The Northern Neck is the peninsula where the Potomac meets the Chesapeake Bay. These are the places we point guests to from the cottage — the host's own short list, not a scrape of every business in the county. Coming to stay? Here's what to bring.

From the cottage

  • Reedville, VA 15 min
  • Kilmarnock, VA 30 min
  • Irvington, VA 45 min
  • Warsaw, VA 45 min
  • Richmond, VA 110 min

Where to eat

The food scene

Waterfront seafood, a brewery, an ice cream stop worth the drive — the places we send guests to, and a few we keep going back to ourselves.

  1. The Office Bistro

    Irvington

    We enjoyed this with our two little girls. The decor evokes the dentist office it used to be. The girls liked the pizza; we liked the pasta and burger. A quirky, fun spot.

    43 locals recommend

  2. Chao Phraya

    Kilmarnock

    One of our favorites in Kilmarnock. Sushi plus a long list of Thai options — the curry dishes were really nice.

    31 locals recommend

  3. Reedville Market

    Reedville

    Solid waterfront dining in Reedville — decent food and a relaxed spot to settle in by the water for an evening.

    71 locals recommend

  4. Horn Harbor House

    Burgess

    Waterfront dining we happily go back for — settle in by the water and start with the crab dip, which is a real standout. The rest of the menu delivers too.

  5. Chitterchats

    Reedville

    The best ice cream stop around. They serve Richmond's Gelati Celeste, our personal favorite in all of Virginia.

    50 locals recommend

  6. Food Lion

    Heathsville

    Not fancy, but this is the nearest grocery store. Friendly, helpful staff.

    39 locals recommend

  7. Callao Brewing Company & Restaurant

    Callao

    A great local brewery, a favorite with visitors from near and far, and a pretty short drive from the house.

    29 locals recommend

  8. Kellum Farms

    Lancaster

    Great local produce — fruits and lovely flowers in season. Call ahead to confirm hours and offerings; contact info is on their social media page.

    16 locals recommend

  9. Kellum Farms Produce & Seafood

    Irvington

    A second Kellum location. For hours and offerings, contact their Irvington store.

  10. Rivah Vineyards at The Grove

    Kinsale

    A delightful afternoon adventure nearby. Typically open weekends only — check their website. They host events from time to time, so see if anything lines up with your stay.

    23 locals recommend

  11. The Local

    Irvington

    Coffee and baked goods in the middle of Irvington, a longtime local favorite. A good first stop before a walk down to the water.

  12. The Vine

    Irvington

    Wine, craft beer, and small plates a short walk from the Irvington waterfront. Our pick for an easy pre-dinner hour.

  13. Fish Hawk Oyster Bar

    Irvington

    A casual oyster bar at the Tides Inn, steps from Carter's Creek. You don't have to be a resort guest. Cold oysters and a drink by the water is the move; call ahead about walk-in availability. The Tides Inn's main dining room, Salt and Meadow, is here too.

  14. The Dog and Oyster Vineyard

    Irvington

    On the Hope and Glory Inn grounds: estate wine paired with local oysters. A very Northern Neck way to spend an afternoon.

  15. The Colonnade at Hope and Glory

    Irvington

    The most elevated dinner in Irvington, a prix fixe in a historic inn. Reserve ahead.

  16. Dredge

    Irvington

    A newer Irvington spot for Virginia oysters, steamed crabs and shrimp, and a good burger. Fills up on weekends, so go early or reserve.

Worth the trip

Sightseeing

Working-water history, a few minutes from the dock.

  1. Reedville Fishermen's Museum

    Reedville

    A local spot the locals love. They run lots of events through the year — call or check the website to see what's on during your stay, and whether events are members-only or open to guests.

    54 locals recommend

  2. Steamboat Era Museum

    Irvington

    Irvington was once a busy Chesapeake steamboat port. The museum tells that story and has a restored pilothouse you can operate yourself. About an hour, right on the main street.

  3. Hope and Glory Inn

    Irvington

    A former boarding school turned inn, worth a slow look even if you're not staying. The Dog and Oyster Vineyard is on the grounds.

Treasure hunting

Antiques & markets

Antique galleries, a thrift shop or two, and country markets stocked by local farmers and watermen.

  1. Kilmarnock Antique Gallery

    Kilmarnock

    A cute little store for antique hunting and a nice souvenir to remember your time here.

    40 locals recommend

  2. Friends of the Northumberland County Animal Shelter Thrift Shop

    Burgess

    We like to stop here for antiques. Call to confirm hours before going — plenty of treasures to be found.

  3. Rivah Consignments

    Kilmarnock

    Another antique and thrift shop if you enjoy treasure hunting like we do.

    6 locals recommend

  4. Jeff's Country Market

    Heathsville

    A nice little local country market. They partner with local farmers, fishermen, and butchers for great local eats and odds and ends.

  5. Irvington Farmers Market

    Irvington

    First Saturday of the month, May through November, at Irvington Commons: local produce, prepared food, art, and live music. An easy hour if you let it be.

Out on the water

The area is good. The dock is better.

Crabbing, kayaking, and a cedar sauna are a few steps from the back door. See what there is to do without leaving the property.